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The Stories Clothes Tell

Voices of Working-Class Japan

Tatsuichi Horikiri - Translated by Rieko Wagoner

Spanning decades of research, this compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing—ranging from everyday kimono, work clothes, uniforms, and futons to actor’s costumes, diapers, hats, aprons, and bags. Simultaneously he collected oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. Horikiri reveals not only the difficult and sometimes desperate lives of these people, most from the lower strata in early twentieth-century Japan, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values. He also explores such topics as textile techniques, the history of fashion, and the ethnography of clothing and related cultural phenomena.

Having been wrongly accused and tortured by the Japanese military police in China during World War II, Horikiri takes a deeply empathetic view of all those who struggle—from peasants and coal miners to traveling salesmen and itinerant performers. This personal connection sets his account apart, giving his writing great power and immediacy. Students and scholars of Japanese history, as well those interested in material culture, labor history, and feminist history, will find this book deeply illuminating.
  • Details
  • Details
  • Author
  • Author
  • TOC
  • TOC
  • Reviews
  • Reviews
  • Features
  • Features
  • Resources
  • Resources
Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
Pages: 206 • Trim: 6¼ x 9½
978-1-4422-6509-7 • Hardback • April 2016 • $115.00 • (£88.00)
978-1-4422-6510-3 • Paperback • April 2016 • $44.00 • (£35.00)
Series: Asian Voices
Subjects: History / Asia / Japan, Social Science / Customs & Traditions, Social Science / Anthropology / Cultural, Social Science / Women's Studies
Tatsuichi Horikiri is an independent scholar at the Kitakyushu Museum of Natural History and Human History. Rieko Wagoner is principal lecturer in Japanese at Trinity College, Hartford, Connecticut.
Introduction
Notes to the Reader
Era Designation and Timeline
Map
List of Illustrations

Chapter 1 Kasuri Mattress Cover from Home
Chapter 2 Koshimaki Petticoat of 83 Patches
Chapter 3 Echigo-jishi Costume for Boy Dancer
Chapter 4 How Many Diapers?
Chapter 5 Two Hanten Field Jackets
Chapter 6 Okiboda, the Pride of Women
Chapter 7 My Teacher’s Sunday Best
Chapter 8 A Weighty Quilt
Chapter 9 Life with a Mosquito Net
Chapter 10 A Bed of Wood Shavings
Chapter 11 The Meisen the Girl Could Not Wear
Chapter 12 Dead Horse
Chapter 13 Female Coal Miners
Chapter 14 Aunties and Uncles
Chapter 15 Rich and Poor
Chapter 16 A Begging Girl
Chapter 17 Noble-minded Ladies
Chapter 18 A Gown of Leaves for the Dead
Chapter 19 Katatsuke-gasuri
Chapter 20 A Lady in a Dilapidated Mansion
Chapter 21 Female Workers in Textile Mills
Chapter 22 Forbidden Tears
Chapter 23 The Thousand-stitch Waistband
Chapter 24 The Rising Sun Kimono That She Wore
Chapter 25 Gifts from My Mother
Chapter 26 Akemi’s Song
Chapter 27 Military Uniforms and Shoes
Chapter 28 What Mompe Trousers Symbolized
Chapter 29 A White Chima Jeogori
Chapter 30 Sarasa Print Bed Quilt
Chapter 31 Hanten Story

Afterword
Acknowledgments
Term Glossary
Selected Bibliography
Supplemental Bibliography
Index
This work touched my heart as much as my head. It brilliantly captures the human spirit of working-class Japanese in the first half of the twentieth century: farmers, schoolgirls, laborers, miners, housewives, soldiers. Drawing on his massive collection of the threadbare clothes that people wore, Horikiri gives us thirty-one stories full of haunting sadness and dignified resilience along with his own trenchant observations about Japanese life and values. His reflections on war should be read by everyone.
— James L. Huffman, Wittenberg University


This is a fascinating exploration in social and cultural history. Through well-chosen, vividly described vignettes, it examines the meaning of fabric and clothing for those who fabricate these items, those who wear or use them, and those who observe the dress of others. A compassionate and compelling work.
— Andrew Gordon, Harvard University


This is a remarkably coherent translation of a fascinating book. Horikiri’s narrative of clothing serves well as a new vision of peoples’ history that conveys a tale of material culture at odds with the middle-class mythologies of modern Japan. Indeed, Horikiri’s work is a recasting of the very notion of kokoro, which in this work serves as a highly valued trope for everyday humanity.
— Christopher Gerteis, SOAS, University of London


In The Stories Clothes Tell, Tatsuichi Horikiri puts readers in touch, almost literally, with the past experience of Japan’s everyday people, or shomin. In a kaleidoscope of more than thirty short essays, each set around a different piece (or sometimes just a scrap) of clothing, Horikiri gathers together the ‘whispers,’ as he puts it, of lives lived largely out of sight of Japan’s upper classes. Thanks to Rieko Wagoner’s fine and empathetic translation, readers outside Japan can now enter Horikiri’s world—not of Japan’s ‘good old days’ that never were, but the ‘real old days’ that might otherwise be lost to memory forever.
— Andrew Barshay, University of California, Berkeley


Readable and engaging memoirs of everyday life in early twentieth-century Japan

Depicts the lives of ordinary people from the lower strata of society, as told in their own words

Uses clothing and textiles as a window into life experiences

Includes timeline, glossary, maps, and photographs of clothing

A rich primary source for courses on modern Japanese history, modern East Asian history, the history of colonialism, labor history, material culture, memory studies, and family studies

FOR PROFESSORS
Ancillary Materials are available for this title. For access to these professor use only materials, please Sign-In if you are a registered user, or Register then email us at rltextbooks@bloomsbury.com
Lecture Notes. The Lecture Notes provide the tables and figures from the text.

The Stories Clothes Tell

Voices of Working-Class Japan

Cover Image
Hardback
Paperback
Summary
Summary
  • Spanning decades of research, this compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing—ranging from everyday kimono, work clothes, uniforms, and futons to actor’s costumes, diapers, hats, aprons, and bags. Simultaneously he collected oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. Horikiri reveals not only the difficult and sometimes desperate lives of these people, most from the lower strata in early twentieth-century Japan, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values. He also explores such topics as textile techniques, the history of fashion, and the ethnography of clothing and related cultural phenomena.

    Having been wrongly accused and tortured by the Japanese military police in China during World War II, Horikiri takes a deeply empathetic view of all those who struggle—from peasants and coal miners to traveling salesmen and itinerant performers. This personal connection sets his account apart, giving his writing great power and immediacy. Students and scholars of Japanese history, as well those interested in material culture, labor history, and feminist history, will find this book deeply illuminating.
Details
Details
  • Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
    Pages: 206 • Trim: 6¼ x 9½
    978-1-4422-6509-7 • Hardback • April 2016 • $115.00 • (£88.00)
    978-1-4422-6510-3 • Paperback • April 2016 • $44.00 • (£35.00)
    Series: Asian Voices
    Subjects: History / Asia / Japan, Social Science / Customs & Traditions, Social Science / Anthropology / Cultural, Social Science / Women's Studies
Author
Author
  • Tatsuichi Horikiri is an independent scholar at the Kitakyushu Museum of Natural History and Human History. Rieko Wagoner is principal lecturer in Japanese at Trinity College, Hartford, Connecticut.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
  • Introduction
    Notes to the Reader
    Era Designation and Timeline
    Map
    List of Illustrations

    Chapter 1 Kasuri Mattress Cover from Home
    Chapter 2 Koshimaki Petticoat of 83 Patches
    Chapter 3 Echigo-jishi Costume for Boy Dancer
    Chapter 4 How Many Diapers?
    Chapter 5 Two Hanten Field Jackets
    Chapter 6 Okiboda, the Pride of Women
    Chapter 7 My Teacher’s Sunday Best
    Chapter 8 A Weighty Quilt
    Chapter 9 Life with a Mosquito Net
    Chapter 10 A Bed of Wood Shavings
    Chapter 11 The Meisen the Girl Could Not Wear
    Chapter 12 Dead Horse
    Chapter 13 Female Coal Miners
    Chapter 14 Aunties and Uncles
    Chapter 15 Rich and Poor
    Chapter 16 A Begging Girl
    Chapter 17 Noble-minded Ladies
    Chapter 18 A Gown of Leaves for the Dead
    Chapter 19 Katatsuke-gasuri
    Chapter 20 A Lady in a Dilapidated Mansion
    Chapter 21 Female Workers in Textile Mills
    Chapter 22 Forbidden Tears
    Chapter 23 The Thousand-stitch Waistband
    Chapter 24 The Rising Sun Kimono That She Wore
    Chapter 25 Gifts from My Mother
    Chapter 26 Akemi’s Song
    Chapter 27 Military Uniforms and Shoes
    Chapter 28 What Mompe Trousers Symbolized
    Chapter 29 A White Chima Jeogori
    Chapter 30 Sarasa Print Bed Quilt
    Chapter 31 Hanten Story

    Afterword
    Acknowledgments
    Term Glossary
    Selected Bibliography
    Supplemental Bibliography
    Index
Reviews
Reviews
  • This work touched my heart as much as my head. It brilliantly captures the human spirit of working-class Japanese in the first half of the twentieth century: farmers, schoolgirls, laborers, miners, housewives, soldiers. Drawing on his massive collection of the threadbare clothes that people wore, Horikiri gives us thirty-one stories full of haunting sadness and dignified resilience along with his own trenchant observations about Japanese life and values. His reflections on war should be read by everyone.
    — James L. Huffman, Wittenberg University


    This is a fascinating exploration in social and cultural history. Through well-chosen, vividly described vignettes, it examines the meaning of fabric and clothing for those who fabricate these items, those who wear or use them, and those who observe the dress of others. A compassionate and compelling work.
    — Andrew Gordon, Harvard University


    This is a remarkably coherent translation of a fascinating book. Horikiri’s narrative of clothing serves well as a new vision of peoples’ history that conveys a tale of material culture at odds with the middle-class mythologies of modern Japan. Indeed, Horikiri’s work is a recasting of the very notion of kokoro, which in this work serves as a highly valued trope for everyday humanity.
    — Christopher Gerteis, SOAS, University of London


    In The Stories Clothes Tell, Tatsuichi Horikiri puts readers in touch, almost literally, with the past experience of Japan’s everyday people, or shomin. In a kaleidoscope of more than thirty short essays, each set around a different piece (or sometimes just a scrap) of clothing, Horikiri gathers together the ‘whispers,’ as he puts it, of lives lived largely out of sight of Japan’s upper classes. Thanks to Rieko Wagoner’s fine and empathetic translation, readers outside Japan can now enter Horikiri’s world—not of Japan’s ‘good old days’ that never were, but the ‘real old days’ that might otherwise be lost to memory forever.
    — Andrew Barshay, University of California, Berkeley


Features
Features
  • Readable and engaging memoirs of everyday life in early twentieth-century Japan

    Depicts the lives of ordinary people from the lower strata of society, as told in their own words

    Uses clothing and textiles as a window into life experiences

    Includes timeline, glossary, maps, and photographs of clothing

    A rich primary source for courses on modern Japanese history, modern East Asian history, the history of colonialism, labor history, material culture, memory studies, and family studies

Resources
Resources
  • FOR PROFESSORS
    Ancillary Materials are available for this title. For access to these professor use only materials, please Sign-In if you are a registered user, or Register then email us at rltextbooks@bloomsbury.com
    Lecture Notes. The Lecture Notes provide the tables and figures from the text.

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