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A History of the Food of Paris

From Roast Mammoth to Steak Frites

Jim Chevallier

Paris has played a unique role in world gastronomy, influencing cooks and gourmets across the world. It has served as a focal point not only for its own cuisine, but for regional specialties from across France. For tourists, its food remains one of the great attractions of the city itself. Yet the history of this food remains largely unknown. A History of the Food of Paris brings together archaeology, historical records, memoirs, statutes, literature, guidebooks, news items, and other sources to paint a sweeping portrait of the city’s food from the Neanderthals to today’s bistros and food trucks. The colorful history of the city’s markets, its restaurants and their predecessors, of immigrant food, even of its various drinks appears here in all its often surprising variety, revealing new sides of this endlessly fascinating city.
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  • TOC
  • Reviews
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Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
Pages: 266 • Trim: 6¼ x 9½
978-1-4422-7282-8 • Hardback • June 2018 • $48.00 • (£37.00)
978-1-4422-7283-5 • eBook • June 2018 • $45.50 • (£35.00)
Series: Big City Food Biographies
Subjects: History / Europe / France, Cooking / History, Travel / Food, Lodging & Transportation / General, Travel / Europe / France, Cooking / Regional & Ethnic / French
Jim Chevallier is a contributor to Modernist Bread (2017), Savoring Gotham (2015), The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd ed. (2012), the Dictionnaire Universel du Pain (2010) and Consuming Culture in the Long Nineteenth Century (2007). His work on the history of the baguette and the croissant has been cited in Libération, the Smithsonian Magazine, and a number of other publications. He is a former musician, radio announcer, coin dealer, and IT specialist.
  1. Material resources
  2. From the Neanderthals to the Franks
  3. From the Capetians to modern times: an overview
  4. Selling food: markets, fairs, shops and supermarkets
  5. Selling meals: before the restaurant
  6. Selling meals: the restaurant
  7. Selling meals: moving towards modernity
  8. Foreign and immigrant food
  9. Drink
  10. In search of the Paris cookbook
  11. Signature dishes
Epilogue: the endless feast
This is not merely a book about the history of food in Paris. It is also covers the history of writing about the food of Paris. [Chevallier] masterfully procures for the reader a condensed history of Paris, spanning from the time of the Neanderthals to the modern day; considering this scope, his approach is neither dry nor tedious but surprisingly concise. The reader is engaged by the masterful storytelling, which describes several major historical food-related developments, from the progression of the professional chef to the birth of the modern day restaurant and the eclectic ethnic foods found in Paris today. To bolster his narrative, Chevallier employs excerpts from writers, philosophers, and historians who experienced these events firsthand. . . .This book not only satisfies those looking for their fix of food-related history but also readers curious about the people who have written on food throughout history. While a reader can consume this book quite rapidly, it is also chock-full of information including a full index, chapter notes, and a selected bibliography. A must-read for all literature loving foodies! Highly recommended.
— Choice Reviews


Part of the Big City Food Biographies series from Rowman & Littlefield, this volume focuses on the food of Paris, France. Written from a first-person perspective, the author takes the reader on a culinary exploration of this well-known and famous city. The first three chapters provide a history of food in Paris from its origins up to the present; the following four chapters discuss ways in which food was and is obtained or sold in chapters entitled “Selling Food: Markets, Fairs, Shops, and Supermarkets,” “Selling Meals: Before the Restaurant,” “Selling Meals: The Restaurant,” and “Selling Meals: Moving toward Modernity.” The final four chapters detail foreign and immigrant food, drinks, Paris cookbooks, and signature dishes. Sprinkled with black-and-white pictures and illustrations of Paris and its history in relation to food, this book is a wonderful guide for anyone visiting Paris and looking to experience its culinary history and modern restaurants.—Bradford Lee Eden
— American Reference Books Annual


Wide-ranging in its survey of Parisian gastronomy, A History of the Food of Paris is a rich account of the French capital’s foods and foodways. From medieval street vendors of herring, pigeons, cress, and chervil, to name only a few, to today’s luxurious Grand Véfour restaurant with its history dating back to the 18th century, this informative book, clearly a labor of love, will enrich the culinary experience of visitors and locals alike.
— Bertram M. Gordon, Mills College, USA


Jim Chevallier's fascinating new book showcases the evolution of Parisian cuisine over thousands of years, from Merovingian feasts to today's cornucopia from around the world: including steak frites, burgers, couscous, falafel, and nem. Chevallier mines a wealth of primary sources for mouthwatering stories about treats such as French onion soup (originally full of cabbage!); waffles; escargots; and magret de canard, as well as captivating street vendors, cabaret owners, bakers, and more -- all illuminated with well-chosen references to recent research on restaurants, markets, immigration and fast food.

— Erica J. Peters, director, Culinary Historians of Northern California


A History of the Food of Paris

From Roast Mammoth to Steak Frites

Cover Image
Hardback
eBook
Summary
Summary
  • Paris has played a unique role in world gastronomy, influencing cooks and gourmets across the world. It has served as a focal point not only for its own cuisine, but for regional specialties from across France. For tourists, its food remains one of the great attractions of the city itself. Yet the history of this food remains largely unknown. A History of the Food of Paris brings together archaeology, historical records, memoirs, statutes, literature, guidebooks, news items, and other sources to paint a sweeping portrait of the city’s food from the Neanderthals to today’s bistros and food trucks. The colorful history of the city’s markets, its restaurants and their predecessors, of immigrant food, even of its various drinks appears here in all its often surprising variety, revealing new sides of this endlessly fascinating city.
Details
Details
  • Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
    Pages: 266 • Trim: 6¼ x 9½
    978-1-4422-7282-8 • Hardback • June 2018 • $48.00 • (£37.00)
    978-1-4422-7283-5 • eBook • June 2018 • $45.50 • (£35.00)
    Series: Big City Food Biographies
    Subjects: History / Europe / France, Cooking / History, Travel / Food, Lodging & Transportation / General, Travel / Europe / France, Cooking / Regional & Ethnic / French
Author
Author
  • Jim Chevallier is a contributor to Modernist Bread (2017), Savoring Gotham (2015), The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd ed. (2012), the Dictionnaire Universel du Pain (2010) and Consuming Culture in the Long Nineteenth Century (2007). His work on the history of the baguette and the croissant has been cited in Libération, the Smithsonian Magazine, and a number of other publications. He is a former musician, radio announcer, coin dealer, and IT specialist.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
    1. Material resources
    2. From the Neanderthals to the Franks
    3. From the Capetians to modern times: an overview
    4. Selling food: markets, fairs, shops and supermarkets
    5. Selling meals: before the restaurant
    6. Selling meals: the restaurant
    7. Selling meals: moving towards modernity
    8. Foreign and immigrant food
    9. Drink
    10. In search of the Paris cookbook
    11. Signature dishes
    Epilogue: the endless feast
Reviews
Reviews
  • This is not merely a book about the history of food in Paris. It is also covers the history of writing about the food of Paris. [Chevallier] masterfully procures for the reader a condensed history of Paris, spanning from the time of the Neanderthals to the modern day; considering this scope, his approach is neither dry nor tedious but surprisingly concise. The reader is engaged by the masterful storytelling, which describes several major historical food-related developments, from the progression of the professional chef to the birth of the modern day restaurant and the eclectic ethnic foods found in Paris today. To bolster his narrative, Chevallier employs excerpts from writers, philosophers, and historians who experienced these events firsthand. . . .This book not only satisfies those looking for their fix of food-related history but also readers curious about the people who have written on food throughout history. While a reader can consume this book quite rapidly, it is also chock-full of information including a full index, chapter notes, and a selected bibliography. A must-read for all literature loving foodies! Highly recommended.
    — Choice Reviews


    Part of the Big City Food Biographies series from Rowman & Littlefield, this volume focuses on the food of Paris, France. Written from a first-person perspective, the author takes the reader on a culinary exploration of this well-known and famous city. The first three chapters provide a history of food in Paris from its origins up to the present; the following four chapters discuss ways in which food was and is obtained or sold in chapters entitled “Selling Food: Markets, Fairs, Shops, and Supermarkets,” “Selling Meals: Before the Restaurant,” “Selling Meals: The Restaurant,” and “Selling Meals: Moving toward Modernity.” The final four chapters detail foreign and immigrant food, drinks, Paris cookbooks, and signature dishes. Sprinkled with black-and-white pictures and illustrations of Paris and its history in relation to food, this book is a wonderful guide for anyone visiting Paris and looking to experience its culinary history and modern restaurants.—Bradford Lee Eden
    — American Reference Books Annual


    Wide-ranging in its survey of Parisian gastronomy, A History of the Food of Paris is a rich account of the French capital’s foods and foodways. From medieval street vendors of herring, pigeons, cress, and chervil, to name only a few, to today’s luxurious Grand Véfour restaurant with its history dating back to the 18th century, this informative book, clearly a labor of love, will enrich the culinary experience of visitors and locals alike.
    — Bertram M. Gordon, Mills College, USA


    Jim Chevallier's fascinating new book showcases the evolution of Parisian cuisine over thousands of years, from Merovingian feasts to today's cornucopia from around the world: including steak frites, burgers, couscous, falafel, and nem. Chevallier mines a wealth of primary sources for mouthwatering stories about treats such as French onion soup (originally full of cabbage!); waffles; escargots; and magret de canard, as well as captivating street vendors, cabaret owners, bakers, and more -- all illuminated with well-chosen references to recent research on restaurants, markets, immigration and fast food.

    — Erica J. Peters, director, Culinary Historians of Northern California


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